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The Lebreuil family estate in Savigny-les-Beaune dates back to 1935, when present winemaker Jean-Baptiste Lebreuil’s grandparents purchased two hectares of vines. Pierre, Jean-Baptiste’s father, enlarged the estate to seven hectares and acquired a bottling line to ensure that he would be able to bottle the majority of his production. After stages in Bordeaux and abroad, and a degree from the Lycee Viticole in Beaune, Jean-Baptiste joined his father in 1999. The Domaine became known officially as Pierre and J-B Lebreuil in 2001 and was further enlarged to its present size of 9.5 hectares, all based around Savigny-les-Beaune. This is a Domaine to watch!

Jean-Baptiste Lebreuil quickly made technical improvements in the cellars, installing new equipment to ensure perfect cellar hygiene (“primordial for the realization of great wines” he affirms). And in the vineyards, Lebreuil instituted stricter pruning to reduce yields and stopped the use of herbicides, replacing that practice with 5 plowings per year to remove grass and aerate the soils so as to encourage the roots to grow deeper. If the crop is deemed too large, Lebreuil green harvests at the time of veraison. In short, all measures are taken to ensure the harvesting of the finest quality fruit.

Jean-Baptiste Lebreuil aims to produce vividly fruity Savigny-les-Beaune wines with great finesse and soft tannins. Vinification and aging follow classic Burgundian practice as it is understood by today’s quality-oriented winemakers. The whites are pressed with a pneumatic pressoir and begin their alcoholic fermentation in temperature-controlled tanks. Fermentation is finished in casks, where the lees are stirred (battonage) every 15 days until the malolactic fermentation is completed. Bottling takes place in the late summer. The Pinot Noir grapes are transported to the winery in small plastic crates to protect the integrity of the fruit. After a full de-stemming, the grapes are given a cold maceration at 8 degrees centigrade with daily pumping over, to bring out the color and fruit aromas. The alcoholic fermentation lasts about 10 days, and very little press-wine is used. The wine is allowed to settle and clarify in the fermentation tanks and then it is transferred to barrels where it ages for 14-16 months.

The Savigny Les Beaune Rouge has concentrated dark cherry fruit in a very pure, elegant style. It comes from many parcels with differing characteristics, mostly on lower slopes at about 200 meters of altitude. Lebreuil blends these different origins to craft his Savigny Rouge in the supple and silky style he seeks. The Savigny Les Beaune Les Grands Liards, from a “lieu-dit” parcel of just over one-half a hectare in size. With 44 year old vines on the south-east facing slope just beneath the 1er Crus, the Grands Liards has more texture and grip than the AOC, with a darker shade of fruit and wonderful balance. Both of the villages Savigny wines are aged in oak casks that are 15% new; 30% one-year; 30% two-year; 25% three years old.

Corinne and Jean Pierre Grossot, now joined by their daughter Eve, represent the third and fourth generations of winemakers at their family Domaine. The Grossots cultivate 18 hectares of Chablis vineyards, centered in the village of Fleys, just east of the town of Chablis. All of Grossot’s vineyards are on the right bank of the Serein River which is recognized as the finest part of the Chablis appellation. Their production is about two-thirds Chablis AOC and one third Premier Crus, including Les Fourneaux, Mont de Milieu, Vaucoupin, and Fourchaume.

The Grossots seek to produce exceptional Chablis wines by keeping the rich, pure Chardonnay fruit, the unique mineral quality of the Kimmeridgian soil, and the lively fruity acidity and bouquet, in perfect balance. The grapes are hand-harvested and gently pressed in a horizontal pneumatic press to ensure the fullest extraction of flavors and aromas. The juice ferments very slowly at low temperatures in stainless steel tanks, and after a first racking, the wines rest mostly in tanks to develop. Bottling is usually done 12-18 months after the harvest. The Grossots’ commitment to making high quality Chablis wines has brought the estate international acclaim.

For over 20 years, Jean-Pierre and Eve Grossots’ vineyard practices have followed and exceeded the standards of culture raisonnée. Since 2008, they have been moving towards total organic viticulture. To confirm their fully organic status, the Grossots and have recently applied for organic certification by Ecocert which is expected in 2015. By pruning severely, the vines have adequate aeration so the threat of problems requiring treatments (such as various forms of mildew and botrytis) is largely eliminated. The vines are fertilized when required by using only organic materials, the soil is plowed, and grass is planted between the rows. No synthetic products and fungicides are used. If necessary, the vines are minimally treated with a copper-sulfate mixture. Grossot recycles his vine cuttings as fuel for heating the Domaine’s buildings.

The Grossots take great pride in their Chablis AOC, which comes from very well-placed sloping vineyards in the communes of Fleys, Chichée and Fontenay. They are able to produce such an exceptionally rich and expressive Chablis AOC because their grapes attain extra maturity, due to the excellent vineyards and their practice of keeping yields low. The soils are all Kimmeridgian limestone-clay with stones and sea-shell fossils. The Grossots usually harvest their Chablis AOC grapes beginning in the third week of September when the fruit has reached an optimal balance of sugar, acidity and pH levels. The wine is aged on its lees in tanks for one year. The Chablis AOC is packed with flavors of ripe pear, citrus and minerals, and has a long, refreshing finish. Always enjoyable on release, it is the ideal introduction to the Grossot’s house style.
The Chablis 1er Cru Les Fourneaux is a steep, south-facing slope on the far side of Fleys, across the valley from the Grossot home and winery. Jean-Pierre replanted two, equal size parcels totaling 1.75 hectares in 1990 because of the vineyard’s enormous potential. Three quarters of the volume completes its fermentation and maturation on fine lees in tanks. For the other 25%, Grossot begins the fermentation in tank and then transfers the fermenting juice into a mix of 228 and 600 litre oak casks, which are between 1 and 5 years of age. This part of the cuveé completes its fermentation in barrels and is then aged, with occasional battonage, in these casks until May. Each part completes its malolactic fermentation separately. The parts are assembled in June and the Les Fourneaux is bottled in September, before the new harvest. This Premier Cru is always the most generous and accessible of the Grossot Premier Crus, offering expressive floral, ripe pear, citrus and mango flavors, a juicy texture, and a long, minerally finish.

The Chablis 1er Cru Vaucoupin vineyard is a very steep, south-facing slope in the commune of Chichée, on the south side of Fleys. The soil here is about half limestone and half clay. The vines in Grossot’s 1.6HA parcel average 45 years of age and are planted on the upper part of the slope, at about 220 meters of altitude. These factors contribute to the full-bodied, powerful and concentrated character of the Grossot Vaucoupin. The grapes are hand-harvested, sorted in the vineyards and again at the winery, and are gently pressed in a horizontal pneumatic press to ensure the fullest extraction of flavors and aromas. The juice ferments very slowly at low temperature in stainless steel tanks, and, after a first racking, the wine rests in tanks to develop on its lees. Grossot aims to balance the natural power and density of the Vaucoupin vineyard with finesse and soft acidity to produce a superb Chablis 1er Cru. It needs at least three to five years in bottle to be fully enjoyed, and can be cellared for over 10 years.

Grossot owns two-thirds of a hectare in the great, south-facing and steeply sloping Chablis 1er Cru Mont de Milieu vineyard, which borders the Grands Crus, near Fleys. The vines average 26 years of age and the soil is all Kimmeridgian limestone-clay with stones and sea-shell fossils. Two-thirds of the volume completes its fermentation and maturation on fine lees in tanks. For the other third, Grossot begins the fermentation in tank and then transfers the fermenting juice into a mix of 228 and 600 litre oak casks, which are between 1 and 5 years of age. This part of the cuvée completes its fermentation in barrels and is then aged in these casks, with occasional battonage, until March. Each part completes its malolactic fermentation separately. Grossot assembles the parts in June and bottles the Mont de Mileu in the second January after harvest. This is the Grossots’ most intense cru, combining remarkable structure, power and purity. The Mont de Milieu tastes of lemon cream, citrus and minerals, with stunning focus and persistence. It needs three to five years of bottle age to show all of its complexity and nuance and will benefit from extended cellar-time.

The Chablis 1er Cru Fourchaume vineyard is located in the commune of la Chapelle Vaupelteigne, north of the Grand Cru sites and the town of Chablis. Grossot owns ¾ of a hectare in two, westerly-exposed parcels of 20-year-old vines. The soil is pure Kimmeridgian limestone-clay with many fossils. The grapes are hand-harvested, sorted in the vineyards and again at the winery, and are gently pressed in a horizontal pneumatic press to ensure the fullest extraction of flavors and aromas. The juice ferments very slowly at low temperature in stainless steel tanks, and, after a first racking, the wine rests in tanks for 13 months to develop on its lees. Grossot aims to balance the natural richness of the Fourchaume vineyard with finesse to produce a superb Chablis 1er Cru. It needs at least two-three years in bottle to be fully enjoyed, and can be cellared for over 10 years.

The origins of the Clerc estate, originally located on the main square in Puligny-Montrachet, date back to the 16th century. Upon his retirement in 2002, Bernard Clerc placed Vincent Girardin in charge of his vineyards and winemaking. The Clerc estate of 11 hectares of vineyards is centered in Puligny-Montrachet, and includes 3 Grands Crus. The vineyards are farmed organically and biodynamically. No herbicides or insecticides are used, and the soils are regularly plowed. The vines are trained high to enhance photosynthesis. The traditional Clerc label has been modernized and is now as elegant and sophisticated as the wines themselves. The Clerc Puligny-Montrachet AOC comes from several parcels with stony- clay-limestone soil lower down on the slope. The vines are pruned to limit production by eliminating excess buds and green-harvesting. Harvest is done entirely by hand. The grapes are meticulously sorted both in the vineyard and the winery to eliminate unhealthy fruit. They are immediately gently pressed in a pneumatic press to retain maximum fruit and aromatic extraction. The must is kept in tanks at low temperatures for 7 days before transferal to oak barrels, of which 15% are new, for alcoholic fermentation and maturation. Only native yeasts, present on the grapes skins, are used. The Puligny-Montrachet AOC matures in barrels on its lees with minimal battonage, or stirring of the lees, to ensure the wine’s freshness. Bottling takes place after about 15 months in accordance with the lunar cycle. The Clerc Puligny-Montrachet AOC is pure Puligny: focused, racy and pure, with notes of crisp tropical and pear fruit and an enjoyably long finish. It has a focused texture balanced with a lively acidity the French would call “nervosite.”

The Puligny-Montrachet Folatières AOC of Domaine Clerc comes from a unique parcel in the middle of the Premier Cru Folatières vineyard. For obscure administrative reasons having to do with the soil mix, it is classified as “only” AOC. From 65-year-old vines, it is exceptionally full bodied for a village wine. The must is kept in tanks at low temperatures for 7 days before transferal to oak barrels, of which 15% are new, for alcoholic fermentation and maturation. Only native yeasts, present on the grapes skins, are used. The Puligny-Montrachet Folatières AOC matures in barrels on its lees with minimal battonage, or stirring of the lees, to ensure the wine’s freshness. Bottling takes place after about 15 months, in accordance with the lunar cycle. The flavor and texture are pure Puligny, with notes of crisp tropical and pear fruit with an extra dimension of richness. The Folatières AOC represents excellent value.

The Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Folatières, made from 55-year-old vines, is a classic Puligny: elegant, linear, racy and powerful. Harvest is done entirely by hand. The grapes are meticulously sorted both in the vineyard and the winery to eliminate unhealthy fruit. They are immediately gently pressed in a pneumatic press to retain maximum fruit and aromatic extraction. The must is kept in tanks at low temperatures for 7 days before transferal to oak barrels (of which 30% are new) for alcoholic fermentation and maturation. Only native yeasts, present on the grapes skins, are used. The Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Folatières matures in barrels on its lees with minimal battonage, or stirring of the lees, to ensure the wine’s freshness. Bottling takes place after about 15 months in accordance with the lunar cycle. It offers vivid fruit aromas and flavors of citrus and pear and white peach, nuanced with minerals and oak. It is full on the palate, with pleasing richness and verve.

Situated on the uppermost part of the on the slope, Clerc’s Puligny-Montrachet Les Champs Gains 1er Cru was planted in 1965. There is thin layer of soil over stony, limestone subsoil. Harvest is done entirely by hand. The grapes are meticulously sorted both in the vineyard and the winery to eliminate unhealthy fruit. They are immediately gently pressed in a pneumatic press to retain maximum fruit and aromatic extraction. The must is kept in tanks at low temperatures for 7 days before transferal to oak barrels, of which 25% are new, for alcoholic fermentation and maturation. Only native yeasts, present on the grapes skins, are used. The Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Champs Gains matures in barrels for 15 months on its lees with minimal battonage, or stirring of the lees, to ensure the wine’s freshness. It is a wine with distinct minerality, length and structure, with bright green apple, citrus zest and white peach fruit.

On the same level on the slope as the Grands Crus, the Puligny-Montrachet Les Combettes 1er Cru is the richest of the Clerc Pulignys. It is made from 40-year-old vines on a stony, limestone soil. The must is kept in tanks at low temperatures for 7 days before transferal to oak barrels (of which 30% are new) for alcoholic fermentation and maturation. Only native yeasts, present on the grapes skins, are used. The Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Combettes matures in barrels for 15 months on its lees with minimal battonage, or stirring of the lees, to ensure the wine’s freshness. It is a wine of tremendous depth, breed and complexity that is at the level of a Grand Cru. The Combettes combines the intensity of Puligny with the generosity of the Meursault Charmes, which it borders. Clive Coates aptly calls the Puligny Les Combettes a most “complete” wine.

The Chassagne-Montrachet AOC comes from several south-east facing parcels with limestone clay soil. The vines average 40 years of age and are pruned to limit production by eliminating excess buds and green-harvesting. Harvest is done entirely by hand. The grapes are meticulously sorted both in the vineyard and the winery to eliminate unhealthy fruit. They are immediately gently pressed in a pneumatic press to retain maximum fruit and aromatic extraction. The must is kept in tanks at low temperatures for 7 days before transferal to oak barrels, of which 15% are new, for alcoholic fermentation and maturation. Only native yeasts, present on the grapes skins, are used. The Chassagne AOC matures in barrels on its lees with minimal battonage, or stirring of the lees to ensure the wine’s freshness. Bottling takes place after about 15 months for the AOC Chassagne in accordance with the lunar cycle. The Henri Clerc Chassagne-Montrachet AOC is exceptionally generous, elegant and full flavored for a village wine. The flavor is pure Chassagne, with a rich texture and notes of citrus and pear fruit, minerals and spice.

The Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Morgeot is an expressive, generously textured, full- bodied Chassagne. It is made from 50-year- old vines located near the Abbey of Morgeot on a primarily stony, limestone soil. The gentle, south-east facing slope enhances ripening. Harvest is done entirely by hand. The grapes are meticulously sorted both in the vineyard and the winery to eliminate unhealthy fruit. They are immediately gently pressed in a pneumatic press to retain maximum fruit and aromatic extraction. The must is kept in tanks at low temperatures for 7 days before transferal to oak barrels, of which 30% are new, for alcoholic fermentation and maturation. Only native yeasts, present on the grapes skins, are used. The Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Morgeot matures in barrels on its lees with minimal battonage, or stirring of the lees, to ensure the wine’s freshness. Bottling takes place after about 15 months in accordance with the lunar cycle. This a powerful white Burgundy with a constitution that equips it for 5 or more years of aging.

The Clerc Bourgogne Rouge Pinot Noir comes from “lesser” vineyards in the vicinity of Gevrey, in the northern part of the Cotes de Nuits. The grapes are harvested late to attain maximum ripeness. They are picked by hand and carefully sorted in the vineyard and again on a sorting table at the winery. The grapes are de-stemmed and fermentation begins with native yeasts present on the skins in temperature controlled, stainless steel tanks. The Bourgogne Pinot Noir is given a 3 week vinification period. The juice is occasionally (as required by the nature of the vintage) pumped over the cap so as to attain a supple, fruity wine and avoid over extraction. The Bourgogne Rouge is aged in 500 litre casks for 12 months to preserve the tasty and supple black fruit, with characteristic Cote de Nuits spice and truffle notes. It is a great introduction to Pinot Noir from its native region.

Clerc’s Volnay AOC expresses the appellation’s unique trait: aromatic and expressively fruity Pinot Noirs that are not accompanied by a pronounced tannic structure and so are accessible when young. The vines average 65 years of age and are located on the lower third of the Volnay slope, below the 1er Crus, The grapes are hand-picked, carefully sorted, and given two days of pre-fermentation cold maceration. The alcoholic fermentation begins with the aid of only native yeasts and lasts for three weeks with several delicate pumping-over operations. The goal is to extract only supple and pure fruit flavors and aromas, while avoiding harsh elements. The Clerc Volnay AC is aged in casks (of which 15% are new and the rest are between one and three years old) for 14 months. It is bottled in February without fining or filtration. The bottling date is selected according the lunar calendar, at the moment of the waning moon, which naturally clarifies the wine.

The origins of Domaine Christian Clerget date back to the beginning of the 20th Century, when the great-grandparents of Christian Clerget, the present owner — together with his wife Isabelle — assembled various parcels of vines in the villages of Chambolle, Vougeot and Morey St-Denis. The 5-hectare family estate was known in the 1980s and 1990s as Domaine Georges Clerget, named for Christian’s father. Christian took over in 1996 and built a new winery in 1998 as a first step to taking the Domaine to its present level of quality; all of the production is now sold under Christian’s name.

Christian Clerget’s vision is to produce the purest, most natural wines possible. This means moving the Domaine towards full “biologique” cultivation. The land is worked by hand and no herbicides or insecticides are used. Clerget believes that balance in the vineyard will help lead to balanced wines. He plows all of his vines at the end of winter and lightly tills during the growing season so as to allow the grass to grow naturally between the rows. The vines are pruned severely to limit yields. Clerget strips leaves and green harvests before veraison to aerate the bunches and enhance maturity.

Christian Clerget places great confidence in his long-standing team of harvesters who know the vines and ensure that only perfectly ripe fruit is picked by hand. The team sorts the grapes in the vineyard and places the grapes in small plastic crates for transport to the winery without damage. A second sorting is done at the winery on a sorting table before the grapes are de-stalked and placed in tanks where fermentation starts slowly with native yeasts. Clerget takes care to prevent the fermentation to advance too rapidly by maintaining a maximum temperature of 32 degrees centigrade. He circulates the liquid over the cap to aerate the must and does a pigeage (or punching down of the cap) daily towards the end of the 3- week fermentation period. After pressing, the wines settle in tank to separate out the gross lees and are then moved into barrels by gravity flow.

Clerget ages his wines in barrels for 12 months and then racks them off the lees by hand. The wines are then redistributed in barrels to complete the last 4-6 months of their elevage. Malolactic fermentation takes places naturally in the spring as the cellar warms up. Clerget’s barrel regimen follows the intensity of the cuvees, and no casks are older than two years: 20% new with the balance one and two year old barrels for the Morey Rouge and Chambolle AC; 25% new barrels for the Vosne; 33% new for the Vougeot and Chambolle 1er Cru; and 50% new oak for the Echezeaux. The wines are bottled after a second racking, without filtration, and with the natural CO2.

The Chofflet-Valdenaire estate, located in the hillside hamlet of Russily, has been in their family for over 100 years. Today the 11 hectare Domaine is run by Jean Chofflet’s son-in-law, Denis Valdenaire. He produces deliciously fruity, accessible Pinot Noirs that represent outstanding value. The Domaine possesses very well-placed vineyards with an average age of 30 years. Denis has been dedicated to sustainable farming for many years, and was a very early devotee of lutte raisonnée practices.

The estate’s Givry AOC comes from several sloping vineyard parcels. The grapes are entirely hand-harvested and 100% de-stemmed. The wine is aged half in tank, half in two to three year casks for one year before bottling. The Wine Spectator recently acclaimed the 2009 Givry AOC, commenting that it is “rich and dripping with aromas and flavors of black cherry, blackberry and spice. There’s plenty of flesh to coat the tannins, and a lingering finish.” The magazine also cited the 2009 Givry as a “Top Value Recommended Red Burgundy” (June 15, 2011). It is a richly fruity, stylish, ripe and harmonious wine that represents excellent value and is a fine introduction to Pinot Noir from a dedicated grower.

The Givry 1er Cru Clos de Choue vineyard is a 6 hectare south facing amphitheater vineyard composed half of very old vines, half of vines planted 10 years ago. The soil is a mixture of red clay and small stones which allows for excellent drainage. The grapes are harvested by hand and the fruit undergoes cold maceration for two days before fermentation begins. Valdenaire does two pigeages by treading each day before pressing. The wine is matured in oak casks for one year before bottling. The Clos de Choue offers intense red fruit flavors of cassis, raspberry and wild cherry and is ready to drink on release.

Valdenaire’s Givry 1er Cru Clos Jus (located next to the Clos Cellier aux Moines) comes from an east-facing hillside looking out to Chalone-sur-Saone. This ideal sloping vineyard, with stony, red clay and limestone soil, was recognized as the finest hillside site in Givry before phylloxera. The entire slope was then abandoned, and only recently replanted. Yields are naturally low and the grapes are always millerandes, making for very concentrated fruit. The wine has a pronounced black-fruit taste, suggesting the Cotes de Nuits, which caused the owners of the vineyard to wonder about the Givry-ness of the Clos Jus after their first harvests (no living person ever having tasted a Clos Jus before.)

They have since learned to cherish the uniqueness of this site; indeed, in a recent comment on the Clos de Lambrays Grand Cru, the Revue du Vin de France remarks on how the Grand Cru’s “complex bouquet” recalls that of the “young and surprising Clos Jus of Givry.”

Montagny is the southernmost appellation of the Cotes Chalonnaise region of southern Burgundy. It produces Chardonnay exclusively from vineyards set in natural amphitheatres. The Roy family have been wine growers in Montagny since 1809. Today, Alain Roy owns eleven hectares of some of the oldest vines in the appellation, with more than half of his holdings being over 35 years old. All the vines are on slopes.

Roy harvests by hand and machine. The grapes are rapidly pressed and then fermented in temperature-controlled, stainless steel tanks for 15-20 days. Bottling takes place after the termination of the malolactic fermentation in April or May, to capture the maximum of the fresh, generous and lively fruit. Roy’s Montagny 1er Cru is an expressive, vivid, and elegant wine with flavors of green apple, nectarine, melon, honey and minerals. It represents outstanding value in white Burgundy. The British wine writer Anthony Hanson’s praise for the Roy Domaine is very apt: “One of Montagny’s most dependable properties, making flowery, ripe, well-balanced wines.”